How Your Independent Pizzeria Can Compete (& Win) Against the Chains

Editor's note: In this article, pizza consultant "Big Dave" Ostrander provides a personal account of how he started an independent pizza operation and took on some of the country's largest pizza chains. The following is a highly personalized account, and somewhat of a departure from the usual didactic style of this magazine. What drew me into this piece was its telling of the author's entry into the restaurant business by desire and necessity in the midst of an economic crisis, and the brutal financial obstacles he overcame to finally succeed, only to face competition from established chains. This is a scenario facing some of our readers today. As the primary goals of this magazine are to educate and inspire its readers, it is our hope that this article accomplishes both objectives.

I was 17 years old when I decided it might be the perfect time for a career change. I had mastered being a golf caddie, newspaper delivery boy and clerk in a pharmacy. Across Seven Mile Road, a brand-new pizzeria was ready to open. I waited until the first aromas of the baking pies got my attention. I stood outside the plate glass window and keenly took in the performance going on in the kitchen. It was the first time I had ever been that close to someone who could hand-toss and spin pizza dough. Time was frozen as I watched in awe as he put on his acrobatic show. He had all of the saucing, cheesing and wooden pizza paddle moves down. I marched in and bought my first 12-inch cheese pizza for an hour's pay -- 90 cents.

Growing up in the '60s in a working-class suburb of Detroit exposed you to the best of rock 'n' roll, Motown and pizza. I actually remember my first taste of the latter. It was a week before my 10th birthday. My way-cool Uncle Ralph dropped in for a family visit and brought a couple of large pizzas with him. No one in my family had ever tasted pizza and he had to explain what it was. Back then there was no such thing as a pizza box. Pizzas were cut on a corrugated circle and slid into a paper bag. Then the bag was snapped shut, trapping the warm air inside and "poofing" up the bag so it wouldn't lie on the hot toppings. Uncle Ralph gently slid out the two huge pizzas on our kitchen table. We were not sure how to start until Ralph slid out a slice and hoisted it to his mouth. We followed suit and it was love at first bite. Did I ever mention that he was my favorite uncle?